: Category: Nowhere Man's Diary; Published: 01 January 2009

Story about "Chinese Lourdes"

In the Province of Hebei I had gone in First decade of October, when all the country is celebrating anniversary of Mao Zhe Dung's Victory 1949. They call it here October Revolution. I got here many impressions, rather more than for 3 months which I spent in Beijing.

I red many booklets about the oldest Hebei diocese: Xian Xian (at first Xi Li). I saw to regional cities of Can Zhou Prefectures. I visited and prayed in some 7 local churches, even Xian Xian Cathedral. I got interview from local Bishop Joseph Li.

I tried local food for example worm insect and some other small "flying objects" similar to butterfly. Also the first time in my life I tried some kind of shrinks with larger corps and shorter legs. I still do not know the name of that food. I got to know that the most favor food in Hebei is donkey meet, but I did not try.

The traffic here is out of control, the people drive like they wish not taking in mind the rules, perhaps because of the all the week celebration many of them just drunken. I liked very much thy style of Chinese cars which I never seen before some mixture of car and motorcycle on 3 wheels, also the tracks same style.

The villagers looked very poor and not well educated but because of their faith never mind the language problem, I accepted them as relatives and they was behaving with me same way. I got friendship of small children especially in the family of Mr. Zhan Bo Hun, which is local businessman and nephew of my doctor. I stayed with him and his family 5 days.

I got to know that in Ho Jiang exists clan of Catholic rich people making money in Russia and spending them partially on diocesan church projects. It is perhaps the reason why the Bishop was so kind to me and even gave me 2 English teachers Joseph and Peter from his major Seminary in Xian Xian to stay with me as my translators, each of them was helping me for 2 days.

From another hand I was very surprised that the local priest Zhao having so rich and friendly parishioners has no car and no money to built new church. He prays in the second floor of old Jesuit School.

Ever afraid that some day will come to pray too much people and the old flour may fall down.

1. Ho Jiang

According old written documents Christians in Hebei appeared thanks to Nestorian priests from Persia in 7-th century. Same time many European countries were still not baptized.

Nestorian tradition partially disappeared under pressure of other local religions, but was easily restored thanks to Franciscan missionary people in 14-th century. One of Bishops was living in Ho Jiang. That mission was also stopped by some emperor but in 17-th century came big number of very good missionary people from Jesuit Congregation like Mateo Ricci who was also spending some time here in the Ho Jiang city.

In the end of 19-th century Ho Jiang has 9000 Catholics and the number was still growing.

Actually I saw in the Sunday mass only 300 people, but the reason why the parish is o small is because they have no proper place to pray.

Their church was destroyed hundred years ago during Boxers Insurrection, which was anti-western oriented movement and many buildings destroyed and people killed. The same happen in the years of so called Cultural Revolution in 1966-1976. In Japanese times the Minor Seminary from Xian Xian came to Ho Jiang and some students and priests were killed.

When I asked my translator why the priest is so poor and cannot built new church I was told that bishop Joseph is paying salary to all his 100 priests the same. All the gifts from rich and poor parishes have to come to his office and he decide which salary is most convenient to his priests. All the rest he spends on diocesan projects.

2. Xi Tsun

The first of October I got unique opportunity to talk with people and even to preach. Parish priest Zhao proposed me to preach twice: in the morning in the village Xi Tsun and in the evening in Ho Jiang city. I was happy because it was the day of st. Teresa and the gospel was also very convenient. About: generosity. I explained that family Martin was rather rich but very generous for the people and for the Church offering on their services all of their 4 children.

After the first celebration I was talking to the people in the garden. About 40 Catholics came to the very small church. I was told there are 100 Catholics, but these days many of them have to work on their corn plants.

I was invited to pay a visit in to families. Their gardens also full of corn, even on the roof they put to make the grain sec.

Also another family, rather rich, they spent with me 10 minutes until the car came to take me for the lunch. We were eating together: the priest, the driver and the parish manager which house I was visiting the last.

3. Xi Xing Zhuang

Xi Xing Zhuang has the same style community and church as the previous one. Here also the priest is coming sometime ones a month if there is transportation.

This time he was invited by some big family for celebration of some parishioner death. Itr was the first anniversary.

The car came to take us at 5PM so I was thinking the mass will be at 6 or 7PM, but at first we came to have "memorial supper" which surprised me a lot. Again no one lady was participating; even there was majority of women, some 10 persons. The man 6 or7 was sitting and eating without hurry.

The supper has no typical for Chinese culture bowings to the memorial desk or photo of the death man. When we finished all the ladies came and eat staying from the same dishes in just a few minutes. They were hurry because the time of the Mass came. About 30 people came at 8PM. The prayer was short but the people were singing very nicely.

As before, after so many adventures I got tired. Priest has gone to make unction in some parishioner house and I stayed in sacristy. The place was very poor without furniture except on table and old iron bad. I lay down and tried to close eyes, but same moment I realized, somebody is looking on me. It was some small snake on the wall. I stand up and ask the people what it was but they explained me that no worry. They are costumed to live with them together. Snake is positive symbol in their culture. Four days later, during last celebration in Ho Jiang I saw the same snake on the window of the chapel.

4. Xian Xian

Diocese in Xian Xian is very special I several meanings. At first it is the oldest Hebei diocese. It means that for all 8 Hebei diocese Xian Xian is "mother diocese". The communist rulers decided that each prefecture in Hebei will have diocesan center, but Xian Xian is only one exception. The capital of prefecture is in Can Zhou, but Bishop Sea is in the capital of small County Xian Xian. The other meaning of special position this diocese has thanks to very good staff of Jesuits working here in the past. The most known in the world is Theillard de Chardin, philosopher and anthropologist which discovered so called "Beijing Man" 80 years ago. It was big sensation in scientifical worl. He created some schools and Museums especially in the city Tianjin.

Xian Xian is known because of big number of vocations. They have 100 priests working in 200 churches; they have also about 100 seminarians. 70-ty of them study in Minor and about 40 in Major Seminary. Some of graduates go to different dioceses of China even Taiwan or Philippines. Also the same picture concerning nuns. In that diocese were working sisters from France, Canada and Hungary. This tradition helped to create new Chinese Congregation. It was very important because other congregations with foreign origin are not allowed to work in China even the members will be from China like Jesuits. This new sister's congregation has about 300 sisters working mostly in village clinics and caring elderly people. In daily life they do not use monastic habits, they just dress in black

On territory of diocese near settlement Xi Li Ho Jiang County there is known in all the china Lurd Zhuang. The village Lourdes.

This diocese has no need in missionary people; it was here before II World War the movement "Propaganda Fidei".

This movement was preparing missionary people overseas. There are some bishops in Taiwan or Philippines even now, which were born in Xian Xian diocese. They still help their native diocese by sending money for social projects in their native villages.

Many officials in deep heart still believe God and similar way like it was in Communist Poland they do not disturb church activities even help but not officially.

I got nice example when we were crossing "check point" which in China is everywhere on highway. Everybody have to pay good money to go. My friendly priest just came to the window of the clerk smiling to him he showed his roman collar and introducing himself as local priest he was allowed to go for free.

5. "Boxers" Insurrection.

I was told that the "boxers' movement" in China was a bit strange insurrection. The people had no guns and tried to fight with hand against Europeans which in fact does some colonial activities in China. As result, many missionary people and new converted Chinese villagers were killed or wounded. Many loosed their homes; some good number of churches was destroyed. In the village of Fangeda two French Jesuits, native from Lourdes find a place in their parish which was a bit similar like their city in Pyrenees. The put the statue of Holly Mary and made many promenades there to kill nostalgia. In some time their parishioners start asking questions about Holly Mary and they also slowly venerate Her. It was deep legend because during Boxers Insurrection many people came here in the desert place praying Mary to be saved. There is strong concern that about 2000 Catholics and some priests keep their lives just staying there and praying. Jesuits buy for them 7000 hectares of land and this way in empty space of land appeared new village named Lurd Zhuang.

Slowly the fame of the place grows in diocese and all the country so even now in May month some 10.000 of people visits the place as pilgrims.

6. "Lading Misa"

After being in Ho Jiang I came with my doctor to his native Fangeda, close to Lurd Zhuang. I never can expect that the visit in the deep Chinese province may be so much exciting. Two days Friday in the evening and Saturday night I spent with parishioners praying Latin Mass. The local priest has some other parishes especially Lurd and the chapel of the sick in the Lurd clinic, so he used opportunity to go and pray there. I got an old prayer book from 1922 year with very used pages with yellow color. The rite of Vaticanum I was looking at first very difficult but slowly I realized it is not so much different with today's missal. All the day I studied the text and finally at 7.30 PM I started with shaking hands. The church was huge about 1000 sitting places, same size like Cathedral in Xian Xian and twice larger than any church in Beijing. The bui8lding was made in eighties last century, totally new, but had also Old Altar for prayer face to God and back to people with 6 high candles. I remember such from my childhood. To put the light the man has to use special stick. I was so much impressed that impressions from my first celebration in native village 15 years ago came back to me. There was about 300 people ordinary day nobody was told the foreigner may come to pray Latin Mass, but the people were answering very nicely. They even were singing Sanctus and Anus Dei, their recite Anus not Angus, because as I realized, they were trained by French missionary people so they inherit accent from them. After the mass a group of old women came to me asking a personal blessing. I realized they recognize in my face with beard old pioneers of that mission and I get unexpectedly their gratitude and love. It was the day of Holly Mary of Rosary. The moon was full and beautiful. I was coming back to doctor's house very happy and like new born baby. I was praying God to give me health back or permit to die in China and I feel this doctor born in Lurd Zhuang made miracle of Holy Mary in my life. I got back forces and sense of life.

7. Exams of Latin.

I wish to tell again that in Beijing Latin language is still popular in churches. Old generation of priests can talk this language as the only foreign language. I got such concern when I met 90 years old father Feng in Xian Xian. The only question he asked me was if we still learn Latin in Seminary I answered him that of course we do. He was really happy and when we were telling good bye each other the last greeting was: "OREMUS INVICEM"(lets pray each other.)

8. The Grotto of Lourdes

In Lurd Zhuang I was twice. The first time I go there to bless the doctor's relatives graves. On our way back we were visiting the Lurd church and grotto, second visit it was promenade to village clinic under sisters from Xian Xian care.

The church was for about 500 sitting places very simple "hand made" without any special decorations, most of attention attract the big garden around with again "hand made grotto" and 14 statues of Apostles and patrons of missions. All the statues 3 meters high, white color. Except Apostles: st. Teresa Little Flower, st. Francis Xavier, st. Ignatius Loyola and Mateo Ricci.

9. The clinic of Lourdes

Sisters were not expecting visitors so a bit shy, but in fact all the visit was the same style as in Da lu Dao. Sisters are radiant persons. They are as apostles 12 nuns here and about 100 elderly people. Chapel was for 100 sitting places and very poor room s for the sick, big garden with vegetables and apple trees. I was tired by happy visiting such a place. One of sick ladies with blind eyes when sisters told her that I am a priest wished not to put out my hand. I preyed deeply for her health; it was difficult to go back. On our way back we were also visiting some poor villager, relative of doctor. The hand made house was small corridor and dirty kitchen with big bad. I was so surprised by poverty here. At first I had problems to enter and stay there everything smelled and the baby which was trying to touch me was dirty and smelling also. It was real fight but after 1 hour sitting there I got warm hospitality of the people I even talked to one year baby all the polish games known from childhood and I realized, he understand me without translation.

Epilogue

I was mistaken thinking that all the houses in china are clean as in Beijing; I was expecting the same from the cars and buses. I got totally different picture. People were behaving very uncultured way, but because of their respect to the church and priests I was here rather more happy than in full of civilization capital of the country. In my opinion the Chinese heart is rather warmer and holly in the province than in the center. In fact I realized the same in Russia and Ukraine. It was very useful to leave from Beijing these days for my knowledge and for my health also.

Fr. Jaroslaw Wisniewski

Ho Jiang - Xian Xian - Fangeda, 23-th October 2006

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