BEIJING CATHEDRALS

Last two weeks I am trying to all activities I was unable to do during 2 months...laying down in the bad. Actually I started visits to my doctor and by case visit the city. Only now I realize how much mistakes I made in my first report from China. I was very naive and also there was nobody to correct me.

First of all surprisingly Beijing has about 20 churches and 2 real cathedrals, also two Priest Seminaries one of them I was able to visit, thanks kindness of father Rector.

Also it happened I made a visit to some Protestants. Even their Theological School. In Cathedral of "Mateo Ricci" I met fr. Xavier Chen, bishops' adviser. He permitted me to have co celebration even daily. From that time I visited much times cathedral on Qian Wu Men except the days I feel week or cannot wake up in time. These days I pray the Mass home privately as before.

I was doing so many times in Siberia or in Hospital in Ukraine... many memories come back to me and inspire.

1. Mysterious nun.

There is in Moscow mysterious sister from Providence Congregation, which do not depend and superior. There are many legends about her even that she make contraband trying to survive in Russia. These days I saw somebody very similar to her in Beijing st. Joseph's church. I was not knowing the people in the parish and wished to know somebody. I needed help so European face was very expected. It was 28 of August, the second visit in the church. All the time during the Mass I was looking for her but she disappeared immediately and never appear again.

2. Custode Angel.

I am calling this way some gentleman, which my eyes choose with same sympathy and hope as the nun.

I saw him a week before, thinking that he may be one of these famous professors playing two roles in China: teachers and priests in free time.

So after the mass I came to him asking help buying medicines. He was agree, even more he introduced me to Chinese medicine doctor and we spent together about 3 hours talking and visiting doctors office.

It was about 4 stops on two different busses so I was amazed by patience and kindness of Holland man.

Until now I did not realized who really he is. The suffer was big and I had no choice asking help.

At the end I asked if he is a teacher, but he answered I former Holland Ambassador. It was shock for me, having such a big fish as translator and taking his time so long.

My medicine was expensive and I had not enough money so he even partially paid it.

It was really big surprise and providence to have such a meeting in unknown city. After few days we had a lunch together, he introduced me to fr. Liao vicar priest in st. Josephs'. Fr. Liao gave me the address to Qian Wu Men. It is the way I got to know Beijing Cathedral. Another words Nan Tang or Matteo Ricci Church.

3. Nan Tang

To the South Cathedral (Nan Tang) came with me my new Doctor Fan Dae Fu (Dae Fu in Chinese doctor of oriental style medicine).

22-th of August in Holly Mother the Queen day at the stairs of cathedral expected us fr. Xavier Chen and we had nice 10 minute talk. Two another English speaking priests came later and were also kind to me.

Fr Chen gave me English Mass Book so that I may read words of consecration and also prayer for the Pope and Bishop Michael Chen.

Everything happened like in any church in the world, I was shocked because so far away from Europe all the details of celebration were like in Vatican perhaps even it was daily Mass, the prayer was very nice.

Even we have so many rumors about Patriotic Association controlling church in China until now for me it was not visible problem.

Cathedral was created 400 years ago by Jesuit Fathers. Permission to make construction and peace of land fro Emperors mercy was given to famous scientist Matteo Ricci SJ. Rebuilt to today's form by another most known personality Adam Shall SJ. Many cases church in Asiatic countries was introduced by scientists. In Korea and Japan until today Catholics are recognized as people of good knowledge, University level people.

Baroque facade you may see from the metro station side Unfortunately there are many accidental buildings and organizations around.

The main entrance is in reparation. Two small and one big court full of small houses, offices, shops, perhaps flats of priests, catechization rooms and even office of the Bishop.

On the second court artificial grotto of Holy Mary from Lourdes.

Cathedral seems to be not so high as st. Joseph. Walls and benches very old and need to be repaired, only presbytery has nice marble flour. It feels lack of sisters hands in sacristy, even 3 old man care very mach about priests and their dressings. There are many flowers in the cathedral. Also here people sing nicely using texts from computer on two big desks. Many candles near altars on the left and right side.

Cathedral in my feeling is more hot in the sense of invisible prayful warmth. Echo of Jesuit activities is present until now here...

4. Bei Tang

A week later after taking many Chinese medicines and acupuncture I does big effort to find North Cathedral myself.

Church was built and consecrated in 1709. Became a cathedral in 1860-1958...there are many such a churches in north Poland, typical "Pomeranian neo gothic" style. Perhaps it is why I was feeling home there.

I realized many defects of "old cathedral", also here many reparations have to be done and much money spent on it.

I just felled on my knees and prayed happy to be there. I was not the only one, I realized many people during the day come here and meditate the beauty.

Afterwards I came here on Sunday Mass and I met at first children choir in the church, also here I met the nun, real one mean Chinese.

At front of the church two Buddhist towers with two big tortoise and 60 small lions, perhaps it was made in the time when church was damaged. Catholics did not destroy these towers.

Also here many small buildings for services, catechization, flats shops and toilets. Holly Mary from Lourdes.

This parish same as Nan Tang has own 4 pages paper. Each cathedral has perhaps 4 or more priests. In Sunday both cathedrals have 4 celebrations.

5. Seminaries

Seminary is far away from the center. Perhaps 20 km in so called How Ba Jia. Taxi man told us the place but at first it was misunderstanding. We came to Presbyterian Theological School. People there was very kind. They made a call and after 20 minutes some seminarian by bicycle came to show us the way.

Seminarian Joseph gave me cup of water and showed all the building. Afterwards he introduced me to the rector who just came form USA.

Rector was very kind, gave us cup of tea, even offered apples. He explained to me many interesting things about Catholics in China also he told me about the second "National Seminary" which is training future priest for all the country.

We have about 12 Seminaries in China and about 1000 seminarians. In his Beijing Diocesan Seminary only 30. It is because of demographic problem he explained.

Policy of one baby... Presence of so nice Catholic School far away from the center and similar Presbyterian School convinced me in opinion that I have many things to learn about Christians in Beijing.

6. Protestants

On Protestant celebration I came by curiosity, but also because of cold.

After Qian wu Man celebration I walked in direction of Nan Tang to take 846 bus to my doc.

It was strong cold wind that day. I felt bad in a moment and my eyes met inscription which I saw before "Christian Church". Holly Mass finished at 8.oo my doc was waiting me at 10.oo. I had still time, so I entered. People were smiling to me and took me down just to the altar.

Some old man with accompaniment of piano trained the people very simple song with words "Yesu wo aini". Later a young couple explained some catechism.

Step by step I got feeling of warmth and wished not to leave but time was going fats, so I left.

In the court some members of choir were training songs before celebration, some people were preparing two big dishes of tea, perhaps all the people will have a party or even lunch after the prayer. It was Saturday so I got an idea that these people are Adventist. Also I was surprised how old all of them are. It was not disturbing me, just realized.

Church was very simple and poor inside, need to be repaired. But also very warm. Christians here have to be real faith heroes.

7. Drug stores

My doc Fan Dae Fu is working in 4 places in Beijing . Drug stores are his offices. In my opinion these people are not less educated that European doctor, just different mentality.

Drug stores also have names, each one special one.

Of course first of all classic medicine, but Chinese medicine has also own place in second room or second flour.

Many shelves with Chinese characters indicate component to prepare personal medicine to everybody. Ladies show you everything what they use for your health, even doctor is trying to explain in details.

You may find flowers, roots, snake Skeen, insects, see animals even, animal hormones. You may boil medicine yourself, but also it may be prepared nicely here in automats.

Acupuncture for me was at first very curious and I was not feeling the pain but slowly it became painful. Each day 10 or 20 points. Belly, head, even ears, fingers and legs. Instrument is 3 or 5 cm long and happens all this length comes into your body. It have to engage some nerves, stimulate them but happens also blood is going out.

Sickness it is a real Cross I was thinking myself these days.

Conclusions

My brain was very busy these days. I realized how powerful Protestant mission in China is. Presbyterians have about 200 students in their seminary. They perhaps may call themselves real winners of competition for human souls in this country. We may be jealous but also we have to learn.

These two big dishes with tea are nice symbol of warmth which sometime we loose in our big and nice cathedrals.

Many times in Russia I was confused same way seeing them everywhere even in small town same time Catholics had problems to establish communities in main cities.

There are many things to be learned except theology and philosophy. Jesus was talking to fisherman and farmers and he knew their life so we Catholics have to know also better simple people even we venerate so much Matteo Ricci and Adam Schall.

fr. Jaroslaw Wisniewski

Guan Caj Lu - Pekin