From Azov to Caspian See
Azov and Kalmyk pastoral visits

In 1993 when on my place to Rostov came Salezians in represented by fr. Edward Mackiewicz, I started to develop outstations. Short time I moved to Taganrog with small hope to have local church building back. It was about 200 years old church.

I was dreaming also about creating catholic community in the city Volgodonsk or in Azov See harbor city Eysk.

Surprising was that the most successful outstation I opened in 500km far away city Elista, capital of old-Mongolic Kalmyk Republic.

I. AZOV SEE

1. Kalmyk catechization

Some Taganrog parishioners were telling me that local president of small Kalmyk Republic is planning to visit Vatican. Sometime before from the city 80 km near to Elista came some Grabowiecki Family which was asking to baptize their baby.

I was ever in shock when unknown people were asking me to minister sacraments, because I was sure they were not trained to have sacraments.

They were very humble people and they explained me that it was 400km way they do to baptize their baby. They were having many difficulties in finding us in Gallery of Arts.

I made an exception even I does sacrament of matrimony for parents, but in heart I promised myself to visit them and open outstation these places, to make additional catechization.

I was looking long time some excuse to go there and finally after finishing pastoral Christmas visits in Taganrog I have gone to Kalmyk Republic. I will talk about later. Now let me describe my pastoral visits in Taganrog.

2. The favor city of Emperors.

City Taganrog was big hope of Peter the Great. He was dreaming to establish there his capital in place of Moscow. He planned the city according the best European principles and technologies.

The name of the city came from osetian word Tagan means fire. It was good place ever to observe Azov see and inform all the people around about some danger from that side. The city built by Peter was existing only few years. Turkish army in revenge after destroying by Peter their fortress in Azov, they do the same in Taganrog, destroying until foundations any building which way built there. Catherine the Great was continuing efforts of Peter.

Alexander the first was the Emperor which loved city very much and spent here much time, he even died in Taganrog. It took few months to bring his body from Taganrog to Petersburg. There is even some legend that he made just a theatre of own death and burial, because he wished to resign from throne and to punish himself for being one of participants in killing of his father Emperor Paul. His penitence was according a legend passing many years in Siberia as so called "Holly Starets" Cosma.

In fact he was very tolerant man and he supported the idea to have Catholic Church in the city. He even gave money to built the church. Local Catholics were expected to install furniture and look for the priests. Responsible person for constructing works was some local Cossack.

All these dates I took from st. Petersburg Archives, thanks to my seminarian from Novocherkassk which gave me copies of old documents. I got all pictures of altars and projects of Italian architect Rossini.

There was document firmed by Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs accepting the project and hand writing of Emperor with Russian words: "BYT' PO SEMU", which simply means I AGREE, LET IT BE THIS WAY!

3. Genius loci

I did not met any native Italians in Taganrog, if they stay alive after revolution they may have gone to Italy or were under process of deep Russification in Stalin times so now they may call themselves Russians. Today we have only Italian Street and monument of Garibaldi, who was visiting the city as young man, perhaps looking for job or adventures.

Here in Taganrog was growing up to 15 years old young Anton Chekhov. His house and Gymnasium were not far away from our church. In same school was teaching chemie father of Felix Dzierzynski. It is possible that he was visiting the Church.

The priests came here from two congregations Carmelites from Lithuanian Province and Italian Franciscan father their names were: Seraphim Hoffeld OCD, he consecrated church in 1811 and spent here about 40 years and Peter de Vella OFM, which was supposed to be his vicar priest, but as it happen in far away places, he was only joking with his Carmelite superior living own life.

The city in the moment of my first visit was a bit dreaming place like I was in the past century, especially old town. I saw house of Chekhov with 19-th century inscriptions. Lines and Avenues has same form like in Catherine times.

Trams were transporting people for free. In the train station was monument of the old train and people ever joke that it is the last train which bring meet to the city.

Memory of soviet times was big stadium changed in a market square. Here the people from Ukrainian Donbass were selling everything possible to get some money for own survival in time of deep crisis in early 90-ties. These Ukrainian tourists were called by local people "Kravchuks" because that time Kravchuk was president in Ukraine.

Direct trains and bus were coming from Mariupol, Ilovaisk and Donetsk. I was traveling from Rostov in the same Mariupol direction, so I saw always these poor people traveling here and there. Market became real fashion and religion of many people.

Interesting is that Taganrog until Stalin's death was Ukrainian city and only later the borders were revised and Taganrog came back to Russia.

We have here like in all Ukrainian Donbass many relics of industrial movement in the end of 19-th century. Belgium, France, Germany were starting here heavy industry which situate small Taganrog in the number of most industrial city in Russia until today. Taganrog produces also aircrafts and some machinery for farming.

Parishioners which helped me register parish were mostly polish, Armenians and Assyrians.

4. Joseph Assyrian

Joseph was inviting me many times. In his home I was eating simple but tasty food. He explained me some details about his native Diaspora and Assyrian dialect which is the same as Aramaic language of north Israel's Galilee, dialect of Jesus Christ.

Joseph had wounded leg, so he was walking with difficulties. His face was typical Syrian -Chaldeian face as most people in Iraq have with nice mustache, long nose and big smile. You can imagine him sitting on Camel and traveling with other nomads in Caravan throw desert.

He was a bit fat so breathing high voice on the stairs. He also had sick heart, so finally he died from heart attack after getting news in his job place that he is fired. He spent all his life working in some metallurgical enterprise. He was one of symbolic personalities in our church and we miss him very much. He fined that new flat for Carmelites which serve until now as prayer house.

He was ever hearing Vatican news and giving me short report what about Vatican was informing last week, he knew the first about Kalmyk President plans to visit Vatican. His native sister Tamara, wife and children still visit the church as most zealous parishioners.

5. Lewantina from Kharkov

Lewantyna, one of the most interesting personalities in our team. She was living near the fabric "Krasny Kotelshchik" producing heating houses gas instruments. She was as Joseph high educated lady. These days she was working as security for some little money by nights together with her cats.

I ever was feeling pain knowing such people has none salary after all the life of hard working on soviet system... still doing "black job in their old age.

I spent strange pastor visit in her house. She knew all about herbs he was real healing person. She was talking about her native Kharkov ever with love. She loved also Taganrog. The most painful for her was his native son alcoholic, which do not care about grand-daughter. Levantina does.

He made for me excellent fish for supper, he also was engaged helping me to find permanent place to live in Taganrog. Later she was cooking and teaching Russian first Carmelite, father Cassian from Poland.

6. Parishioners from Belarus

More strange memories I got in visiting house of some officer, which never became general like his classmates just because he had relatives in Poland. He was under eyes of local spies, because after my pastoral visit, he got another pastoral visit from secret services under stupid excuse that some sect was visiting him.

His son was forced during studies to sign document forbidding contacts with foreigners, so one pretty day he stopped visiting church. It was really painful and crazy in the country which just proclaimed to be open society and democratic one with all the tolerance to religion etc.

7. Armenians

In New Year I paid a visit in Darbinian house. The host was pretty and bit fat medicine sister. Her father Tigran (in Armenian Tiger), just came from Georgia to make surgery of cancer in his neck.

She was helping him to find a place in hospital and the date of surgery was near. She asked unction for him during pastoral visit and I served for him this sacrament with all zeal and attention possible.

Faith of these poor people was incredible. The man got better after this prayer and they made all analysis again. There was no cancer anymore according words of Amalia and Tigran returned home to Georgia cured without surgery.

Her husband Albert was also absent because working in Army and many years afraid loosing job because of being Catholic. Finally in 1997, we got friends during repairing flat for fr. Carmelite. He was happy like a childe during our travels for special red sand which I used to clean the garden around parish house.

The ground in Taganrog is like a mood so the red small stones were like asphalt after short time mixing with black mood. We took these materials in my Russian land car. Albert was driving excellent way in any conditions like Schumacher. He was also Armenian but his hairs were blond, which surprised me much.

Last time I got to know about the third family which was living near chapel. They were having some business and concurrence killed them hidden way. That people was very generous, they had relative uncle priest in Batumi, and he was simple photographer in soviet times. Actually in Armenian house live Catholic nuns.

8. Mr. Grashchenko

I was invited also by Mr. Grashchenko native from Ukrainian Enakevo � orthodox man. He got in love with Italians which were staying in Enakevo during the II World War. He trained speak Italian and even visited there few times. He was introducing me to his friendly Orthodox priests and showed me the tomb of "Starets Pavel", local holly man living in Taganrog in 19-th century.

Grashchenko ever visited our parish when some foreigner came trying to talk them Italian even they were English talking people. He knew singing some Italian songs as Santa Lucia and was singing ever when we were asking him about that. During Holly Mother of Fatima he asked me to bless him and his wife sacramental way.

His house had also aristocratic furniture, such aspirations had that poor man to be in everything similar as his Italian friends.

9. Pharmacist

Sergey was different than others. He appeared time to time and disappeared. He was living on the second floor in some old house in the center. He was never sure if our church is the best and if inviting me he was right or not, such a funny boy. H was ever hesitating man.

Once he has gone to Poland with a group of parishioners to see the Pope John Paul II, after wards he got peace. He started act more seriously and even wrote some Caritas project for having in the parish cheep drug store. He was pharmacist as professional and also Jewish nationality, most of parishioners were telling me. People in Russia do not like to be called Jewish, so I never was asking him about that, but it may help understand his first doubts concerning our church and his participation.

I saw him the first time in Rostov Puppet Theatre once and just he was the first man who informed me about existing old building of the church in the city.

10. "Chechens"

I was making pastoral visit also in some familie of army workers, which loosed their job after the man had wounded eye in the war. He had never any money for that wound. He just got nice flat and when I visited it was still empty, none furniture. The people had no money to buy anything. Maria her wife native in Ukraine, very religious and zeal Catholic was working in market. They had nice children and because the old one was very wise girl she took the little one and both participated in Holly Mass. Father was absent because of injure and drinking, but later he became friend of mine during repairing prayer house. He had golden hands and he got also friend with Carmelite father Cassian.

II. CASPIAN SEE

So, before I have gone to Kalmyk Republic, I prayed a Mass in the morning in sisters' house in Bataysk. There was a reading prophetic for me, about Saint Paul seeing in dream some Macedonian asking about His coming with Good News to Macedonia.

Telling the truth, similar dream as Saint Paul I got before going to Sakhalin, you will find the story later. Now it was starting my first experience with huge Asiatic nation living in European Russia. Hearing the gospel about Saint Paul's dream I got sure that my decision to visit "country of Oyrats" was right.

1. Visiting minister's office

Because I did not know anybody in the country I came to the Administration Building. I had big appetite of adventures so I took some booklets about Fatima apparitions and some rosaries. There was no President in his office in that day so people advised me to visit ministry of Religion.

Exclusively in that Republic I met the first such Ministry and I got nice talk with the chief of the office Mr. Buratov was perhaps his name. His eyes were sick so it was difficult to know his meanings.

Later I got some customs in having meetings with Asiatic people. You never have to be too much enthusiastic, because they were trained thousands years to be kind with foreigners. When you get close relationship curtain is disappearing and you may get such that previous friendship despaired and warmth changed to icy cold.

I realized later that friendship of Buddhist Kalmyk was kind of play to use Catholics in building more effective policy against strong local Orthodox lobby.

Orthodox priest monk Zosima was same kind man to me as minister Buratov. Seeing me poor man he even gave me some money that I may go back home successfully.

Later, when I got success registering 3 communities in Kalmyk Republic and he had still only 7, he started to criticize me even attack in official homilies and press.

He does big activities in Moscow to get the title of first Orthodox Bishop in Kalmyk Republic and was continuing attacking Franciscan Fathers which came later after my resignation.

Republic had very active Mormons, Adventists and Baptists. These days they got a bit peace because before attacking Catholics, the main targets were Protestants.

It is important to know that in Kalmyk Republic we have also big number of Moslems from neighbor Dagestan. They are perhaps 20% of citizens in Kalmyk Republic.

Buddhist monks same time were growing in number of people coming from Tibet and construing nice Datsan, also the first and biggest statue of Buddha in the center of the city.

Fr. Zosima during first meeting was very kind and informed me about big German minority in West part of Kalmyk Republic advising me to establish community there. I like city Elista and local people so I started organizing first community against his will in the center. Perhaps it is why he got so sad.

I am very sorry, but we Catholics have right to decide about our own activities in the middle of the people in any country, same Orthodox, they never ask Catholics their opinion about opening their monasteries or parishes even dioceses in the western Countries where Catholics are the majority of population.

2. Visiting journalists

Minister of religion was advising me to visit local Buddhists and Orthodox priest. Yes I do, but without asking him I also visited local journalists. It was nice and providential meeting.

Appeared large article with interview and my invitation to come on meeting with me to the main square 14-th of February at 9.00. I had no other place to meet people so I was waiting near the Lenin's monument.

A month later old polish lady Mrs. Helena came on meeting me surprised that there are nobody anymore. She took me home and my adventures with pastoral visits 1994 started. Later I got to know more than 20 people which were enough to register community.

In the number of first Catholics was Helena's mix Polish-Kalmyk daughter who was baptized as Catholic in Poland and her adult son non Baptized Andrew.

I wish to clarify that Taganrog is on Azov See and Kalmyk Republic on Caspian See. All that Steppe land these days was under my pastoral care.

The closest priest was living in Astrakhan, another in Kabardino-Balkaria, Stavropol Land, 3 priests in Krasnodar land, Salezians one in Rostov and Christ Congregation with fr. Jaroslaw Gizycki, in Ukraine in Donieck and close cities. I was 30-ty, first 3 years none car but big will to fly on the sky and walk on the water.

Geography-historic annotations:

Kalmyk-Autonomous Republic is in the South part of European territory of Russian Federation. It is a part of Mongol nation so called "Oyrats" means "The Rest" of big Mongol Empire of Zhingiz Khan. It is the only European nation believing in Buddha according its Lama-Tibetan version.

In 17-th century they moved from middle Asia to Volga in the middle between Astrakhan and Saratov moving slowly in south on Caspian borders.

There are notes about some Kalmyk people baptized in Astrakhan in 18-th century in local Catholic Church. In west part of Kalmyk Republik in Cosack Land some of them were baptized as Orthodox.

They were integral part of Cossack forces, very strong soldiers, ever loyal to Russian Empire.

It happened during Stalin regime that they were blamed in collaboration with Germans, so all the nation together with Volga Germans and Chechens were evacuated by force in one single day in Middle Asia. The slowly were loosing their customs and identity. Only 10 % of nation returned in native Elista. Actually we have only 100.000 native Kalmycks in 300.000 Republic. Some of them live in Kazakhstan, some even in China. There is small emigration of Kalmyk in USA. Their most close brother nation lives near Baikal in Buryatia. Some of Buddhist students got their studies in Lama Monastery in Ulan-Ude. Some Buriats live in Aginsk Autonomous Region near Chita.

The most famous book in Kalmyk language is epos Dzungar written in 17-th century. Kalmyk Capital: Elista. President of Kalmyk Republic: Kirsan Ilumzinow.

Fr. Jaroslaw Wisniewski, 14 February 2005,

Makeevka-Donbass-Ukraine